Are you ready for spring? I know, fall’s barely here, but fashion is always three steps ahead, and New York Fashion Week opened its Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear shows with a bang. Some shows were digital, some were in person. Many were spread across the city, some were in galleries, designers’ studios, and — if you were Jason Wu — in the Sunken Garden at the Chase Manhattan Bank Building in the Financial District.
Things got off to a hot start at Rodarte, designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy had flowers on the brain — big huge blossoms and powerful petals. They were there in bold, bright colors and beaded fabrics, and absolutely huge ruffles.
One of the most anticipated shows of the week was Peter Do’s debut at Helmut Lang. (He worked for Celine’s Phoebe Philo, and designers Eli Russell Linnetz and Thakoon Panichgul sat in his front row.) It seems pretty safe to say he revived serious interest in the ‘90s brand with his fresh take on bubble silhouettes, loads of denim paired with minimalist, low-slung pants and pops of loud pink. (Note: Barbiecore shows no sign of diminishing.)
Arguably the biggest deal was the triumphant return of Ralph Lauren to New York’s runways. On hiatus for about a year and a half, he held came out guns — or make that celebrities — blazing. In his front row sat Jennifer Lopez, Diane Keaton, Amanda Seyfried, and Julianne Moore, who thrilled to Lauren’s designs that come out on O.G. supermodels like Christy Turlington and Natalia Vodianova. His signature rustic-met-with refinement was everywhere — with feathery embellishments on denim, one-shouldered gold lamé dresses, and tuxes. It was a decadent — and ultra-fun — way to kick off the shows.
Over the weekend, Proenza Schouler didn’t fail to wow (do they ever?) with cool-as-can-be bleached straight-leg jeans and mesh tees that definitely begged for breezy spring days. In contrast to that simplicity were mesh dresses made from artisanal ribbon and embroidery that were more about spring weddings and cocktail parties.
When Jason Wu took to the stage on Sunday, he offered all kinds of raw-edged, bias-cut slip dresses that spelled pure American romanticism. Some of them were alone, some over pants, but always in delicate fabrics and oozing confidence. They were diaphanous, sometimes lacey, and always pretty. I also really appreciated — as always — Philip Lim’s never-boring American sportswear. Never one to offer the expected, he presented wide-legged khakis and jaunty scarf dresses I can’t wait to wear on the first balmy days.
And at Khaite, Catherine Holstein sent scads of tough-chic looks down the catwalk at Park Avenue Armory— including lots of black-on-black and body con shapes, Moto jackets, and boxy blazers. When there was white in among that black, it was refreshingly billowy, flowing, and as ethereal as a cloud — as with the big-sleeved tunics, tailored paneled jackets, and cinched-waisted trenches.
On Monday, out came Rentrayage. The New York- and Brooklyn-based brand by Erin Beatty has made a name for itself in the sustainability realm for upcycling with creativity and cool, and this season was no different. Newly stitched-up and fitted button-down shirts flattered and inspired, and ruffled blazers walked the line between office wear and the stuff of Sunday-Funday for brunches everywhere.
No one could stop talking about Tuesday’s Brandon Maxwell show — a delightful and absolutely beautifully edited rollout of flowing neutral looks. Head-to-toe tunics over body-skimming skirts, belted and gauzy wraps; evening-ready all-black mesh dresses; fantastic oversized bell-shaped v-neck tops over skinny bellbottoms; and nicely tailored jackets paired with frayed denim — a refreshing nod to real-life dressing as seen from the runway.
